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Portable Soup for Travellers

A hearty broth made from veal, beef, ham, celery, carrots, anchovies, mace, and butter, simmered for hours.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Celery and carrot match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 10,173 recipes. Both carry myristicin, which smells spice, warm. The science ↓

Portable Soup for Travellers

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare and simmer

  1. Cut the veal, beef, and ham into small pieces.

  2. Melt the butter in a large pot, then add the meat and bones.

  3. Add the anchovies, mace, cleaned and chopped celery leaves, and thinly sliced carrots.

  4. Cover the pot and cook over moderate heat until the gravy begins to draw.

  5. Remove the gravy and add enough water to cover the meat.

  6. Bring to a boil and simmer for 4 hours.

Strain and reduce

  1. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve into a clean pot.

  2. Boil the strained liquid until it reduces by three-quarters.

  3. Add the reserved gravy and boil gently, skimming off the fat until it thickens.

  4. Season with cayenne pepper to taste.

Set and cut

  1. Pour the mixture into flat dishes, about ¼ inch thick, and let it cool overnight.

  2. Cut into rounds using a cutter slightly larger than a coin.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Celery + carrottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,173 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  2. Beef + carrottop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,606 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Veal + beeftop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,784 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,6-nonadienal (cucumber, green).

  4. Beef + celerytop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,370 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  5. Mace + carrottop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,592 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Veal
Bones and connective tissue release gelatin, giving the soup body and helping it set when cooled.
Beef
Adds meaty depth and extra gelatin from its bones, supporting body and a firm set.
Ham
Contributes savoury, salty meat flavour to the long-simmered stock.
Butter
Adds richness and fat that carries flavour and gives a smooth mouthfeel.
Anchovies
Melt into the stock, adding salty, savoury depth that rounds out the flavour.
Carrots
Add gentle sweetness and aromatic body to the stock.

The step that matters

Skimming fat while boiling gently. Fat left in the reduced stock can turn the set jelly greasy and cloudy. A gentle boil keeps the liquid clear and lets it thicken as the gelatin concentrates.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (veal, beef, ham, butter, celery, carrot):

  1. Parsleyfits better
  2. Marjoramfits better
  3. Thymefits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against veal, beef, ham, butter, celery, carrot. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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