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To Dress Cold Calf’s Head or Veal a LA Maitre D’hotel

A sauce for dressing cold calf’s head or veal, made with butter, flour, and pale veal gravy or beef stock.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Veal and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 11% of all ingredient pairs, and 9,381 recipes mention both. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

The recipe

Ingredients

Contains: milk, wheat, shellfish (auto-detected from the ingredients and method; we can miss things, so check labels)

Also mentioned in the method: scallop

Directions

Prepare

  1. Cut the cold calf's head or veal into small, delicate slices or equal-sized scallops.

Make the sauce

  1. In a saucepan, knead the butter and flour together until smooth.

  2. Place the mixture over gentle heat, stirring constantly for 1-2 minutes without letting it color.

  3. Gradually add the veal gravy or beef stock in small portions, allowing the sauce to boil after each addition.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.

  1. Veal + buttertop 11% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together9,381 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Butter + flourtop 6% of all pairs
    Aroma overlaplow
    Mentioned together122,858 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Veal + flourtop 16% of all pairs
    Aroma overlaplow
    Mentioned together5,870 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Butter and flour share little aroma chemistry, yet 122,858 recipes mention both: they likely work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Butter
Enriches the sauce with fat and smooth flavour while helping bind the flour into a roux.
Flour
Thickens the sauce to a smooth, coating consistency when cooked with the butter.
Veal gravy or shin-of-beef stock
Forms the liquid base of the sauce, adding savoury depth as it thickens.

The step that matters

Cooking the roux without browning. Stirring the butter and flour over gentle heat only briefly keeps the roux pale and mild. Colouring it would change the flavour and colour of the pale dressing, and boiling the liquid in small additions helps the starch swell evenly for a smooth sauce.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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