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Totted Anchovies

A preserved anchovy paste made by pounding anchovy flesh with butter and spices, then setting to harden.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 6 ingredients
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Why it works: Mace and nutmeg are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,557 recipes. Both carry myristicin, which smells spice, warm. The science ↓

Totted Anchovies

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the paste

  1. Pound the cleaned anchovy flesh in a mortar until it forms a perfect paste.

  2. Press the paste through a fine sieve using the back of a wooden spoon.

  3. Weigh the anchovies and pound them again with double their weight of fresh butter.

  4. Add mace, cayenne, and nutmeg to the mixture and combine well.

Set and store

  1. Set the mixture in a cool place for 3 to 4 hours to harden.

  2. If desired, pour lukewarm butter over the mixture before storing.

  3. Store in potting pans; the anchovies will keep for 2 to 3 weeks.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mace + nutmegtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  2. Pepper + nutmegtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  3. Mace + rosetop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together498 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  4. Nutmeg + rosetop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  5. Mace + peppertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together12,257 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

Mace and pepper barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 12,257 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Anchovies
Provide the main savoury, salty flavour and the fish body of the paste.
Butter
Adds fat and creaminess, binding the pounded anchovy and helping it set firm when cooled.
Mace
Adds a warm, aromatic spice flavour that complements the fish and butter.

The step that matters

Pounding the anchovies with the butter. Anchovy flesh must be worked into a smooth paste before the butter is added, so the fat emulsifies evenly. Lumps of fish left in the butter give an uneven texture and flavour in the finished spread.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, pepper, nutmeg, rose):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Cardamomfits better
  3. Allspicefits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, pepper, nutmeg, rose. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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