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Maccaroni À LA Milanaise

A macaroni dish with a creamy sauce of chicken broth, butter, flour, cheese, mustard, and optional egg yolks.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Butter and cheese match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and 7,955 recipes mention both. Both carry delta-dodecalactone, which smells sweet, creamy. The science ↓

The recipe

Ingredients

Contains: egg, milk, wheat (auto-detected from the ingredients and method; we can miss things, so check labels)

Directions

Prepare the broth

  1. Boil the macaroni until tender, then drain and keep warm in its pan.

  2. In a saucepan, combine chicken broth, onion, sweet herbs, and black peppercorns; bring to a simmer.

Make the sauce

  1. Melt butter in another saucepan, stir in flour to form a paste, then gradually add the hot chicken broth.

  2. As the sauce thickens, stir in grated cheese, mustard, and salt; continue stirring until creamy.

  3. Remove from heat and stir in cream and beaten egg yolks if using.

Serve

  1. Combine the sauce with the hot macaroni and serve immediately.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.

  1. Butter + cheesetop 3% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together7,955 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  2. Butter + creamtop 3% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together41,494 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  3. Chicken + oniontop 4% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together17,808 recipes

    Shared aroma: gamma-nonanolactone (coconut, sweet).

  4. Onion + mustardtop 4% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together9,243 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Cheese + mustardtop 5% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together1,805 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Macaroni (in the method)
Forms the body of the dish, absorbing the sauce as the base of each serving.
Butter
Enriches the sauce and carries flavour, forming the base of the roux.
Flour
Thickens the sauce by swelling with hot broth to form a smooth, coating texture.
Grated cheese
Adds savoury depth and, as it melts, gives the sauce a creamy, cohesive body.
Egg yolks
Enrich the sauce and add richness and smoothness when stirred in off the heat.

The step that matters

Stirring the cheese into the thickening sauce. Cheese proteins can clump or turn grainy if the sauce is too hot or boiling. Stirring steadily over gentle heat keeps the emulsion smooth and creamy.

Flavor stand-ins for the mustard

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (chicken, onion, butter, flour, cheese, cream, egg):

  1. Potatobetter flavor fit
  2. Asparagusbetter flavor fit
  3. Chiveabout as good a flavor fit
  4. Mustardthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against chicken, onion, butter, flour, cheese, cream, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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