Why it works: Sugar and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓
English Sauce for Salad, Cold Meat, or Cold Fish
Ingredients
Directions
Boil the egg yolks for at least 15 minutes and let them cool completely.
Mash the yolks in a bowl with the back of a wooden spoon until smooth.
Add the salt, sugar, cayenne, and cold water; mix well.
Gradually stir in the sweet cream or olive oil until the sauce resembles custard.
Add the chili vinegar and common or French vinegar to taste, stirring briskly.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Pepper + vinegartop 14% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together27,814 recipes
Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).
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Sugar + vinegartop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together20,806 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).
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Egg + sugartop 21% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together122,807 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).
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Pepper + creamtop 23% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together21,449 recipes
Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).
Pepper and cream barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 21,449 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Hard-boiled egg yolks
- Form the base of the sauce, giving it body and a smooth, custard-like texture.
- Sweet cream
- Adds richness and moisture, helping the mashed yolks emulsify into a smooth custard.
- Olive oil
- Acts as an alternative fat that emulsifies with the yolks for richness and body.
- Powdered sugar
- Adds sweetness that balances the sharpness of the vinegars.
- Chili vinegar
- Provides acidity and sharp heat that brightens the rich yolk base.
The step that matters
Gradually stir in the cream or oil. Adding fat slowly lets the yolk particles coat and disperse it evenly. Pouring too fast can break the emulsion, leaving the sauce oily and grainy instead of smooth.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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