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Dessert

Excellent Soda Buns

A sweet, lightly leavened bun made with butter, sugar, candied rind, nutmeg, cream, eggs, and baking soda.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 10 ingredients
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Why it works: Butter and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 8% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 41,516 recipes. Both carry delta-dodecalactone, which smells sweet, creamy. The science ↓

Excellent Soda Buns

Oven, in the book's wordsA moderate oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a moderate oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Make the dough

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).

  2. Work the butter into the flour until crumbly.

  3. Mix in the sugar, salt, candied rind, and nutmeg.

  4. Pour in the boiling cream or milk and mix slightly.

  5. Add the egg yolks and one egg white, then mix well.

  6. Dust in the baking soda and mix until combined.

Shape and bake

  1. Grease a baking sheet with butter.

  2. Drop spoonfuls of the mixture onto the baking sheet.

  3. Bake in the oven for 15 to 25 minutes until firm and golden.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,516 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  2. Orange + nutmegtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,746 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  3. Flour + nutmegtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18,623 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  5. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Flour
Provides the structure that holds the buns together as they set.
Butter
Rubbed into the flour to tenderise the dough and add richness.
Egg yolks
Add richness and help bind the dough while setting the crumb.
Baking soda
Reacts with the acidity in the dough to produce gas that lifts the buns.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and helps the surface brown during baking.

The step that matters

Dust in the baking soda and mix until combined. Baking soda needs an acid to react and release gas. If it is unevenly mixed, pockets of soda can taste bitter or metallic, and other areas may not rise properly.

Swap the orange

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, butter, sugar, nutmeg, cream, egg):

  1. Raisinfits better
  2. Vanillafits better
  3. Figfits better
  4. Orangethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, butter, sugar, nutmeg, cream, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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