Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
A Ft 'icassee of Cold Veal
Ingredients
Directions
Make the sauce
Place the slices of cooked veal in a stew-pan with water, sweet herbs, and mace.
Let it stew until tender, then remove the herbs.
Mix flour and butter in a separate pan and add to the stew to thicken.
Stir in the milk and beaten egg yolk, then add pickled mushrooms and fresh mushrooms if available.
Keep stirring until it boils, then add lemon juice and stir well to prevent curdling.
Serve
Serve garnished with lemon.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Butter + mushroomtop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together12,525 recipes
Shared aroma: trans-2-decenal (waxy, orange).
-
Milk + mushroomtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,231 recipes
Shared aroma: 1-hexanal (fruit).
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Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Veal + mushroomtop 14% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,446 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).
Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Veal
- Provides the main protein, which becomes tender through slow stewing in liquid.
- Flour
- Thickens the stew into a sauce as it cooks with the butter.
- Butter
- Adds richness and fat, carrying flavour and smoothing the thickened sauce.
- Milk
- Forms the creamy body of the sauce, mellowing its flavour.
- Egg yolk
- Enriches and thickens the sauce, giving it a smooth, velvety texture.
- Mushrooms
- Add earthy flavour and texture to the sauce.
- Lemon juice
- Adds acidity that brightens the rich sauce.
The step that matters
Adding the lemon juice after boiling. Egg yolk in the sauce can curdle when acid is added to it or it is overheated. Keep stirring constantly and add the lemon juice only once the sauce has boiled, stirring well so the egg stays smooth.
Swap the mace
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (veal, flour, butter, milk, egg, mushroom, lemon):
- Parsleyfits better
- Nutmegfits better
- Thymefits better
- Macethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against veal, flour, butter, milk, egg, mushroom, lemon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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