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Turtle a LA Reine

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mace and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and 6,557 recipes mention both. Both carry myristicin, which smells spice, warm. The science ↓

The recipe

Ingredients

Contains: egg, milk, wheat (auto-detected from the ingredients and method; we can miss things, so check labels)

Also mentioned in the method: breadcrumbs

Directions

  1. Cut the head off the turtle, tie it by the hind fins, and let it hang for 2 hours.

  2. Separate the calapee (lower shell) from the calipash (upper shell).

  3. Remove the entrails, split them, and clean with salt and water.

  4. Cut off the fins close to the calapee and the meat close to the skull.

  5. Cut the calapee and calipash into 6 or 8 pieces, then boil them and the fins in water for 2 minutes.

  6. Dry the pieces for blanching as you would an ox palate.

  7. Boil the meat for 6 minutes, then let the calapee, calipash, and fins simmer until tender.

  8. Bone the calapee and calipash when half done.

  9. Boil the entrails until tender.

  10. Lay the pieces on dishes for 1 day.

  11. Make gravy from the beef and add wine, mace, nutmeg, shallots, sweet herbs, seasoning, bread crumbs, and eggs.

  12. Cut the calapee, calipash, fins, and entrails into neat pieces.

  13. Pour the seasoned gravy over the pieces in a large pan and mix well.

  14. Transfer the mixture to a large dish, cover with veal forcemeat, butter, and yolks of hard-boiled eggs.

  15. Bake as you would any large meat dish.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.

  1. Mace + nutmegtop 1% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  2. Beef + peppertop 4% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together18,971 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Nutmeg + peppertop 4% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  4. Mace + peppertop 6% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together12,257 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  5. Nutmeg + shallottop 6% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together1,007 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

Flavor stand-ins for the shallot

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (beef, madeira wine, mace, nutmeg, pepper, egg, ketchup):

  1. Capsicumbetter flavor fit
  2. Carrotbetter flavor fit
  3. Shallotthe original
  4. Potatoabout as good a flavor fit

Fit is the average pairing score against beef, madeira wine, mace, nutmeg, pepper, egg, ketchup. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).

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