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From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Anchovy and ketchup match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 479 recipes. Both carry ethanol, which smells alcoholic, ethereal. The science ↓

Hashes

Ingredients

Directions

  1. In a tossing pan, heat 2 quarts of gravy for 45 minutes.

  2. Add the anchovy, beaten mace, Cayenne, lemon pickle, walnut ketchup, truffles or morels, lemon slices, sweet herbs, and wine.

  3. Mix 1/4 pound of butter with flour and add to the pan.

  4. Soak the brains in hot water, then beat them finely in a bowl.

  5. Add 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon of flour, lemon peel, parsley, thyme, sage, pepper, and salt to the brains and mix well.

  6. Drop spoonfuls of the mixture into boiling hog's lard and fry until light brown.

  7. Drain the brain cakes on a sieve.

  8. Remove the hash from the pan with a fish slice and place it on a dish.

  9. Strain the gravy over the hash and top with mushrooms, forcemeat balls, hard-boiled egg yolks, and brain cakes.

  10. Garnish with lemon and pickles.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Anchovy + ketchuptop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together479 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  2. Pepper + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  3. Lemon + walnuttop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,149 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Lemon + white winetop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,832 recipes

    Shared aroma: myrcene (balsamic, herbaceous).

  5. Pepper + walnuttop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,039 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (anchovy, pepper, lemon, walnut, ketchup, truffle, white wine):

  1. Parsleyfits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Tarragonfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against anchovy, pepper, lemon, walnut, ketchup, truffle, white wine. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

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