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Of Hashes

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 8,686 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Of Hashes

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Clean the guts and maw, then boil them in a large pot of water until tender.

  2. Remove the inside skin and cut into 2-3 inch pieces.

  3. Prepare veal broth by boiling veal knuckles in 3 gallons of water with turnips, onions, carrots, celery, and sweet herbs until reduced by half, then strain.

  4. In a stew-pan, place the fins and cover with veal broth, adding chopped onion, sweet herbs, cloves, mace, and nutmeg. Stew gently until tender.

  5. Remove the fins, add 1 pint of Madeira wine, and stew for 15 minutes.

  6. Beat the egg whites with lemon juice, add the liquor, boil, and strain through a flannel bag.

  7. Heat the strained mixture, clean the fins, and add them back in.

  8. Melt butter in a stew-pan, add white meat, and sweat gently until almost tender.

  9. Cover lungs and heart with veal broth, onion, herbs, and spices, and stew until tender.

  10. Remove lungs, strain the liquid, thicken it, and add a bottle of Madeira wine and season with Cayenne.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + nutmegtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,686 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Carrot + celerytop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together10,173 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  3. Turnip + carrottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,002 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  4. Turnip + celerytop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,418 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  5. Mace + nutmegtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (veal, turnip, onion, carrot, celery, clove, nutmeg):

  1. Winter savoryfits better
  2. Parsleyfits better
  3. Marjoramfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against veal, turnip, onion, carrot, celery, clove, nutmeg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

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