Why it works: Celery and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 3,467 recipes. Both carry beta-phellandrene, which smells minty, terpene. The science ↓
A Very Good Sauce for Boiled Chickens
Ingredients
Directions
Make the stock
In a saucepan, combine chicken legs, necks, veal or mutton, mace, peppercorns, anchovy, celery, sweet herbs, and lemon peel.
Add 1 quart of water and boil until reduced to ½ pint.
Strain the mixture.
Finish the sauce
Thicken with ¼ pound of butter and some flour, then boil for 5 minutes.
Add 2 tablespoons of mushrooms.
Beat the egg yolks with 1 teacup of cream, then stir the beaten mixture into the sauce.
Keep stirring over low heat until near boiling.
Serve in a sauce-tureen.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Celery + lemontop 3% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together3,467 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).
-
Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Anchovy + buttertop 13% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,697 recipes
Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).
-
Chicken + vealtop 13% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,243 recipes
Shared aroma: 3-butanedione (buttery, creamy).
-
Veal + anchovytop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together456 recipes
Shared aroma: hexanol (green, fruity).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Chicken legs and necks
- Provide the main meaty flavour and body for the stock that becomes the sauce.
- Butter
- Enriches the sauce with fat and a rich, smooth mouthfeel.
- Flour
- Thickens the liquid so the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
- Egg yolks
- Add richness and further thicken the sauce when gently heated.
- Cream
- Adds richness and a softer, smoother texture to the finished sauce.
The step that matters
Stirring the egg yolk and cream mixture into the sauce. Egg yolks can curdle or scramble if the sauce gets too hot. Stirring constantly over low heat, only until near boiling, keeps the sauce smooth while the yolks thicken it.
Swap the mace
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (chicken, veal, anchovy, celery, lemon, butter, flour):
- Parsleyfits better
- Capersfits better
- Thymefits better
- Macethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against chicken, veal, anchovy, celery, lemon, butter, flour. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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