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Another Good Receipt for Walnut Catsup

A walnut-based ketchup made with eschalots, garlic, salt, vinegar, anchovies, pepper, cloves, and mace.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 9 ingredients
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Why it works: Pepper and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 17,451 recipes. Both carry ethyl octanoate, which smells fruity, wine. The science ↓

Another Good Receipt for Walnut Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

Macerate

  1. Bruise the walnuts in a large marble mortar until thoroughly broken.

  2. Place the walnuts in a stone jar with the sliced eschalots, garlic, salt, and vinegar.

  3. Let the mixture stand for 10 days.

  4. Stir it morning and night.

  5. Strain off the liquid.

Boil and bottle

  1. Boil it for 30 minutes with anchovies, black pepper, cloves, and mace.

  2. Skim the mixture well.

  3. Strain it again.

  4. Let it cool.

  5. Pour the liquid gently from the sediment into small dry bottles.

  6. Cork the bottles securely.

  7. Store them in a dry place.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  2. Clove + macetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together8,400 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  3. Garlic + peppertop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together27,090 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  4. Walnut + clovetop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,592 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Garlic + clovetop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together11,368 recipes

    Shared aroma: linalool (floral, citrus).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Green walnuts
Provide the main flavour base and bitter, astringent character of the ketchup.
Vinegar
Acts as the preserving liquid and extracts flavour from the walnuts and aromatics.
Anchovies
Add savoury depth, adding umami that rounds out the sauce.
Eschalots
Contribute mild onion sweetness and aromatic body to the liquid.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out and helps preserve the mixture during its long standing.

The step that matters

Straining off the liquid after 10 days. Sediment left in the liquid can cloud the ketchup and spoil it over time, so the liquid should be poured off gently and strained clearly before boiling and bottling.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (walnut, garlic, vinegar, pepper, clove):

  1. Allspicefits better
  2. Tarragonfits better
  3. Thymefits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against walnut, garlic, vinegar, pepper, clove. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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