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Chartreuse of Partridges

A roasted partridges dish layered with cabbage, carrots, turnips, and garnished with French beans, Brussels sprouts, and served with Espagnole sauce.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Carrot and turnip match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 8,002 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Chartreuse of Partridges

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the components

  1. Prepare and roast the partridges.

  2. Cook the cabbage as directed for "Partridges aux Choux".

  3. Add essence of partridge, stirring until moisture is gone.

  4. Cut carrot and turnip into 2‑inch pieces.

  5. Cook the carrot and turnip separately.

Build the chartreuse

  1. Grease a plain entree mold with butter.

  2. Line the bottom of the mold with a circular piece of paper.

  3. Garnish the paper with the cooked vegetable pieces.

  4. Layer cabbage in the mold.

  5. Add four fillets of partridge.

  6. Layer cabbage again.

  7. Repeat the layering until the mold is filled.

  8. Warm the mold in a bain‑marie until heated through.

Plate and serve

  1. Turn the contents onto a serving dish.

  2. Garnish with alternating rounds of carrots and turnips, placing a French bean between each.

  3. Top with turnip shavings and a Brussels sprout in each.

  4. Create a cup from carrot.

  5. Place the cup in the center of the chartreuse.

  6. Fill the cup with French beans.

  7. Serve with a tureen of thinner Espagnole sauce made with essence of partridge.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Carrot + turniptop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,002 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Cabbage + turniptop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together897 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  3. Turnip + beanstop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together400 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  4. Carrot + beanstop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,443 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isobutyl-3-methoxypyrazine (green bell pepper, earthy).

  5. Cabbage + carrottop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,505 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Partridges
Provide the main meat, cooked and layered through the cabbage for savory flavor.
Cabbage
Forms the bulk of the layers and holds moisture and body around the meat.
Essence of partridge
Concentrates the meat flavor, and reducing it removes excess moisture from the layers.
Carrot
Adds mild sweetness and color to the garnish and decorative cup.
Turnip
Adds a mildly sweet, peppery note and color to the garnish.

The step that matters

Stirring the essence of partridge until the moisture is gone. If liquid is left in the mixture, the layers will be wet and loose, so the chartreuse may not hold its shape when turned out of the mold.

Swap the brussels sprouts

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (cabbage, butter, carrot, turnip, beans, sauce):

  1. Leekfits better
  2. Parsnipfits better
  3. Beetrootfits better
  4. Brussels sproutsthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against cabbage, butter, carrot, turnip, beans, sauce. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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