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Mutton, Rolled Loin Of.

A seasoned and rolled loin of mutton, baked and stewed with port wine and mushroom ketchup.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Allspice and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Mutton, Rolled Loin Of.

Oven, in the book's wordsA slow oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a slow oven”. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the meat

  1. Hang the mutton until tender, then bone it.

  2. Sprinkle the meat with pepper, mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg, all pounded very fine.

  3. Let it marinate for a day.

  4. Make a forcemeat and cover the meat with it.

  5. Roll the meat and bind it firmly.

  6. Half bake the meat in a slow oven at 300°F (150°C) until it cools.

Stew and finish

  1. Remove the fat from the meat.

  2. Place the gravy in a stewpan.

  3. Dredge the meat with flour.

  4. Add the dredged meat to the gravy.

  5. Stew until perfectly tender.

  6. Remove the meat from the gravy.

  7. Unbind the meat.

  8. Add the port wine and mushroom ketchup to the gravy.

  9. Bring the gravy to a boil.

  10. Pour the boiling gravy over the meat.

  11. Serve with red‑currant jelly.

  12. Optionally, stew mushrooms in the gravy and serve with the dish.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Allspice + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,874 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Allspice + nutmegtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,331 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Nutmeg + clovetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,686 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  4. Mace + nutmegtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  5. Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Loin of mutton
Forms the main body of the dish, becoming tender through long slow stewing.
Forcemeat
Covers the rolled meat, adding moisture and savoury richness as it cooks.
Flour (in the method)
Dredging coats the meat so it browns lightly and thickens the gravy.
Port wine
Adds sweetness and depth of flavour to the gravy.
Mushroom ketchup
Adds concentrated savoury, umami flavour to the gravy.

The step that matters

Stew until perfectly tender. Mutton loin is tough connective-tissue meat; it only becomes tender after long, gentle simmering. Rushing or boiling hard toughens the muscle fibres and leaves the meat dry and chewy, so it should barely simmer until it yields easily.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mutton, pepper, allspice, nutmeg, clove, port wine, mushroom):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Marjoramfits better
  3. Thymefits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mutton, pepper, allspice, nutmeg, clove, port wine, mushroom. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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