Why it works: Sugar and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓
Flummery
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the almonds
Blanch the almonds and soak them in cold water.
Remove the almonds, then beat them in a marble mortar with a little rose-water to prevent oiling.
Make the flummery
Combine the beaten almonds with the jelly stock and sweeten with loaf sugar.
Bring the mixture to a boil, then strain it through muslin.
Once slightly cooled, mix in the thick cream, stirring often until thick and cold.
Mould and set
Wet the molds in cold water, pour in the flummery, and let it stand for six hours.
If the flummery is stiff, wet the molds to release it without using warm water.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Almond + rosetop 11% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together1,465 recipes
Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).
-
Almond + creamtop 16% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together5,130 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-heptanol (bitter, floral).
-
Almond + sugartop 18% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together15,679 recipes
Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).
-
Sugar + rosetop 25% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together3,584 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Bitter almonds
- Give the characteristic almond flavour that carries through the dish.
- Sweet almonds
- Add bulk and a smooth, creamy body when beaten into a paste.
- Jelly stock
- Provides the liquid base that thickens and sets as it cools.
- Thick cream
- Adds richness, fat and a soft, smooth texture.
- Loaf sugar
- Adds sweetness to balance the almonds.
The step that matters
Mixing in the cream after slight cooling. If the mixture is still too hot, the cream can split or curdle. Stirring often while it cools keeps the cream evenly dispersed as the stock thickens and sets.
Swap the almond
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, cream, rose):
- Almondthe original
- Pistachiofits about as well
- Chestnutfits less well
- Walnutfits less well
Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, cream, rose. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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