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To Stew Lamb’s Head

A stew made from a lamb's head, veal, beef suet, and various aromatics, served with fried brains and meatballs.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Thyme and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 3,973 recipes. Both carry beta-phellandrene, which smells minty, terpene. The science ↓

To Stew Lamb’s Head

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the head

  1. Wash and clean the lamb's head, then soak it in water for 1 hour.

  2. Remove the brains, bones, tongue, and eyes carefully.

Make the meatballs and brain cakes

  1. Chop veal, beef suet, thyme, lemon peel, nutmeg, and anchovies together.

  2. Mix the chopped ingredients with grated stale rolls and 4 egg yolks.

  3. Save some of the mixture for about 20 meatballs.

  4. Beat the brains with lemon peel, parsley, nutmeg, and 1 egg yolk.

  5. Fry the brains in small cakes.

  6. Fry the meatballs, keeping them warm.

Stew and serve

  1. Stew oysters in 2 quarts of gravy with mace.

  2. Tie the lamb's head with string, cover, and stew for 2 hours.

  3. Strain the gravy.

  4. Add truffles, morels, and mushrooms to the gravy.

  5. Boil the mixture.

  6. Add the remaining unfried brains and stew for 1-2 minutes.

  7. Pour the mixture over the lamb's head.

  8. Arrange the fried brains and meatballs around the head.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Thyme + lemontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,973 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  2. Thyme + nutmegtop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,907 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Beef + mushroomtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,232 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

  4. Lamb + beeftop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together896 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

  5. Thyme + mushroomtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Bind the meatball and brain mixtures so they hold their shape when fried.
Stale rolls
Absorb moisture and add body to the meatball mixture, helping it bind.
Beef suet
Adds fat that keeps the meatballs moist and rich as they cook.
Veal
Provides the main meat body of the meatballs and gives a tender texture.
Mushrooms
Add savory, earthy flavor to the gravy.
Truffles
Add a concentrated, aromatic earthy flavor to the finished gravy.

The step that matters

Fry the brain cakes and meatballs. The mixtures are held together only by egg and starch, so they can break apart if the oil is not hot enough or they are moved too early. Frying until a crust forms sets the outside before they are arranged on the head.

Swap the nutmeg

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (lamb, veal, beef, thyme, lemon, egg, mushroom):

  1. Marjoramfits better
  2. Parsleyfits better
  3. Rosemaryfits better
  4. Nutmegthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against lamb, veal, beef, thyme, lemon, egg, mushroom. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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