Why it works: Flour and raisin match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 9,075 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓
Baba Cake
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a slack oven”. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Prepare the starter
Sift 4 lb of flour onto a marble slab.
In a basin, mix 1/4 of the flour with 1 oz of dissolved yeast and 1 teacup of warm water. Add more water if needed to form a stiff paste.
Shape the mixture into a ball, score a cross on top, and let it rise in a warm place for about 10 minutes.
Make the dough
Make a cavity in the remaining flour.
Add 2½ lb of warmed butter, 1 oz of salt, ½ teacup of water, and 15 eggs. Mix well to form a soft paste.
After 5 minutes, add 6 more eggs one at a time, mixing lightly for 10 minutes. Sprinkle in 1 teaspoon of powdered saffron and mix.
Add the fruit and bake
Soak 4 oz of Smyrna raisins, 8 oz of Malaga raisins, 4 oz of currants, and mixed candied peels in 1 breakfast cup of Madeira wine and 3⅓ cups of brandy or rum for a few minutes.
Incorporate the soaked ingredients into the paste gently and let it rest for a few minutes.
Prepare a well-buttered mold with a strip of paper above the rim. Fill the mold with the mixture to about ¾ full.
Let it rise until it reaches the top of the mold.
Bake in a slack oven at 300°F (150°C) for about 3 hours.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Flour + raisintop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together9,075 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Currant + brandytop 7% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together3,057 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).
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Saffron + raisintop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Raisin + curranttop 10% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together6,180 recipes
Shared aroma: gamma-nonanolactone (coconut, creamy).
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Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Flour
- Forms the structure of the cake once it is mixed with liquid and eggs.
- Eggs
- Add structure, richness and lift to the soft paste as they set in the oven.
- Butter
- Adds fat for a tender crumb and rich flavour.
- German yeast
- Makes the dough rise by producing gas as it ferments.
- Raisins
- Add sweetness and moisture to the cake.
The step that matters
Letting the dough rise to the top of the mold. Yeast dough needs enough time to expand fully before baking. Underproofed dough can bake dense, while a slack oven helps the rich batter set through without over-browning.
Swap the saffron
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, butter, egg, raisin, currant, madeira wine, brandy):
- Cinnamonfits better
- Nutmegfits better
- Allspicefits better
- Saffronthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against flour, butter, egg, raisin, currant, madeira wine, brandy. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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