Why it works: Milk and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Essex Pudding
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare
Soak the sago in cold water overnight.
The next day, place the sago in a flat stewpan with enough water to cover it and cook until soft and water is absorbed.
Soak the raisins in boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain the raisins.
Butter a pudding tin generously.
Arrange the raisins in a pattern on the bottom and sides of the tin.
Make the batter
In a bowl, beat the eggs and mix in the sugar.
Gradually add the milk to the egg-sugar mixture.
Stir in the breadcrumbs and beat to form a batter.
Add the chopped suet to the batter.
Mix cornflour with a little cold milk, then add the cornflour mixture to the batter.
Add the boiled sago to the batter.
Sprinkle a pinch of salt into the batter and beat the batter vigorously.
Steam and serve
Spoon the pudding mixture into the tin carefully to avoid disturbing the raisins.
Cover the tin.
Steam the pudding for 1.5 hours or boil for 1 hour.
Dip the pudding in cold water for a minute.
Turn the pudding out onto a hot dish.
Serve with jelly sauce.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
-
Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
-
Sugar + raisintop 13% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together12,481 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).
-
Milk + raisintop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together7,155 recipes
Shared aroma: decanoic acid (acides aroma).
-
Egg + buttertop 17% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together118,967 recipes
Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).
-
Sugar + buttertop 17% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together98,233 recipes
Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Bind the batter and add structure and richness as the pudding sets.
- Breadcrumbs
- Provide the body of the pudding, absorbing liquid to form a soft crumb.
- Suet
- Adds fat, giving a moist, rich texture to the steamed pudding.
- Sugar
- Adds sweetness and helps balance the savoury-free, rich batter.
- Milk
- Moistens the batter so the breadcrumbs and sago can soften and set.
- Raisins
- Add sweetness and chewy fruitiness to the finished pudding.
The step that matters
Spoon the pudding mixture into the tin carefully. Raisins arranged on the tin's sides and base form the pattern only if they stay put. Pouring or spooning roughly shifts them, spoiling the look and clumping fruit unevenly.
Swap the raisin
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, sugar, milk, butter):
- Vanillafits better
- Figfits about as well
- Coconutfits about as well
- Raisinthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against egg, sugar, milk, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
You might also like
The free Flavor Lab newsletter: one surprising pairing a week and the molecular reason it works, in 60 seconds. No spam, unsubscribe anytime.
Prefer an account? Create a free account to save pairings and unlock the full chemistry.
White Cake431 recipes
Pound Cake373 recipes
Orange Bundt Cake349 recipes
Spice Cake344 recipes