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Sauce

Fish Sauce Withoui Builor

A fish sauce made with vinegar, water, onion, horse-radish, cloves, mace, black pepper, anchovies, ketchup, and egg yolks.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Horse and radish work together. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 529 recipes. Both carry 2-methylbutyraldehyde, which smells malty, chocolate. The science ↓

Fish Sauce Withoui Builor

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Simmer vinegar and water with onion, horse-radish, cloves, mace, and black pepper until the onion is tender.

  2. Chop the onion small with the anchovies, then boil the mixture for a few minutes with the ketchup.

  3. Beat the egg yolks and strain them.

  4. Gradually mix the hot liquid with the egg yolks.

  5. Heat gently, tossing the sauce to prevent curdling until thickened like melted butter.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Horse + radishtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together529 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-methylbutyraldehyde (malty, chocolate).

  2. Clove + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together17,451 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  3. Clove + macetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together8,400 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  4. Vinegar + radishtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together508 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Radish + clovetop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together196 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Thicken the sauce and give it a smooth, rich body as they set gently with heat.
Anchovies
Add a deep, savoury saltiness that rounds out the sauce.
Vinegar
Provides sharp acidity that balances the richness of the yolks.

The step that matters

Heat gently, tossing the sauce. Egg yolks thicken through gentle heat, but too much heat scrambles the proteins and curdles the sauce. Keeping the heat low and the sauce moving lets it thicken smoothly.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (vinegar, onion, horse, radish, clove, pepper, ketchup):

  1. Allspicefits better
  2. Garlicfits better
  3. Celeryfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against vinegar, onion, horse, radish, clove, pepper, ketchup. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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