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Hreast of Veal Rolled in a Ragout

A veal breast rolled, braised, and served with a ragout of truffles, mushrooms, and organ meats.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 14 ingredients
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Why it works: Veal and liver match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 392 recipes. Both carry enoic acid, which smells butter, cheesy. The science ↓

Hreast of Veal Rolled in a Ragout

Oven, in the book's wordsA gentle oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a gentle oven”. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the veal

  1. Remove the bones from the breast of veal and beat it.

  2. Spread half of the breast with plain forcemeat and half with yolk-infused forcemeat to create a marbled effect.

  3. Roll the breast tightly and tie it securely with kitchen twine.

Braise and glaze

  1. Stew the rolled veal in a good braise until tender.

  2. Let it cool in the braise, then trim and place it on a dish.

  3. Put it in a gentle oven at 300 °F (150 °C) and glaze it three to four times.

Make the ragout and serve

  1. Prepare a ragout with truffles, mushrooms, cocks' combs, sweetbreads, fat livers, and artichoke bottoms, shaking them gently in bechamel sauce until hot.

  2. Mix 2 egg yolks with a little cream and lemon juice, then add to the ragout.

  3. Place the breast of veal in the center of the dish with the ragout around it.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Veal + livertop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together392 recipes

    Shared aroma: enoic acid (butter, cheesy).

  2. Beef + mushroomtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,232 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

  3. Truffle + mushroomtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,900 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

  4. Mushroom + artichoketop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together447 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

  5. Veal + truffletop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together815 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Veal breast
Forms the main body of the dish, becoming tender through slow stewing.
Egg yolks
Enrich the forcemeat and thicken the ragout sauce as they gently set with heat.
Bechamel sauce
Provides a creamy, smooth base that binds the ragout ingredients together.
Sweetbreads
Contribute a soft, delicate texture and rich flavour to the ragout.
Truffles
Add a deep, earthy aroma that gives the ragout its luxurious character.

The step that matters

Adding the egg yolk mixture to the ragout. Egg yolks thicken when heated, but if the ragout is too hot when they are added, they can curdle and turn grainy. Add them off the heat or over gentle warmth, stirring constantly, so the sauce becomes smooth and velvety.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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