Why it works: Cream and sugar are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓
Spanish Flummery
Ingredients
Directions
Make the almond custard
Finely pound the sweet and bitter almonds in a mortar.
In a stewpan, combine the ground almonds with the egg yolks.
Pour in the boiling milk and stir quickly over low heat until thickened.
Remove from heat and stir until slightly cool to prevent lumps.
Finish and set
In another bowl, whisk the heavy cream to a light froth.
Once the custard is cold, gently fold in the whipped cream.
Add powdered sugar to taste and the dissolved isinglass mixed with minimal warm water.
Mix everything lightly and pour into a mold when it begins to set.
Refrigerate for about an hour until ready to serve.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Almond + creamtop 16% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together5,130 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-heptanol (bitter, floral).
-
Almond + milktop 16% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together5,800 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).
-
Milk + creamtop 18% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together29,399 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
-
Almond + sugartop 18% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together15,679 recipes
Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Egg yolks
- Thicken the custard as they cook and set, giving it a rich, smooth body.
- Heavy cream
- Whipped to a froth, it adds lightness and richness to the set dessert.
- Isinglass
- A gelatin-like setting agent that firms the mixture as it cools.
- Sweet almonds
- Ground into the custard, they supply the main nutty almond flavour and body.
- Bitter almonds
- Ground in small amount, they add a deeper, sharper almond aroma.
The step that matters
Remove from heat and stir until slightly cool. Egg yolks in hot milk can scramble and form lumps if left too hot. Stirring off the heat while the custard cools slightly keeps it smooth before the cream and isinglass are added.
Swap the almond
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, milk, cream, sugar):
- Almondthe original
- Pecansfits about as well
- Pistachiofits less well
- Chestnutfits less well
Fit is the average pairing score against egg, milk, cream, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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