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Eel Pie

A savory pie made with eels, coated in meat-pie paste, baked, and finished with a lemon-flour sauce.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

Eel Pie

Ingredients

Directions

The book gives no oven temperature. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.

Prepare the eels

  1. Skin, clean, wash, and trim the eels.

  2. Cut off the heads and tails, then divide the bodies into 2 to 3-inch pieces.

  3. Sprinkle the eel pieces with pepper and coarse sea salt.

  4. Place them in a shallow dish and pour in ½ cup of cold water.

Assemble and bake the pie

  1. Cover the dish with meat-pie paste.

  2. Brush the top with egg yolk and decorate as desired.

  3. Bake in a 400°F (200°C) oven for 1 hour.

  4. While the pie bakes, stew the skins, fins, heads, and tails of the eels in ½ pint of water for about 45 minutes.

Make the sauce and finish

  1. Strain the liquid through a sieve.

  2. Add 2 tablespoons of lemon juice and season with pepper and coarse sea salt.

  3. Thicken the mixture with 1 teaspoon of flour, heat it, and pour it into the pie through the hole in the crust.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Egg + flourtop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together106,462 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  3. Lemon + flourtop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together30,404 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Egg + lemontop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  5. Pepper + flourtop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together50,459 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Egg and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 106,462 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eels
Provide the main filling, with their flesh turning tender and flaky as the pie bakes.
Meat-pie paste
Forms the crust that encloses the eels and holds the steam during baking.
Egg yolk
Brushed on top, it promotes a glossy, golden browned crust.
Flour
Thickens the strained stock into a light sauce that is poured into the pie.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the rich flavour of the eel and stock.

The step that matters

Thickening the stock with flour. Flour must be stirred into the strained liquid and heated so starch gelatinizes and thickens it. If it is added to a cold or lumpy liquid, it clumps and the sauce stays thin or grainy.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (pepper, meat, egg, flour):

  1. Lemonthe original
  2. Raisinfits about as well
  3. Limefits less well
  4. Avocadofits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against pepper, meat, egg, flour. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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