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Another Mullagatawny Soup

A hearty veal soup flavored with curry, pepper, allspice, and arrowroot thickener.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and 6,395 recipes mention both. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Another Mullagatawny Soup

Ingredients

Directions

Make the broth

  1. Boil the bones and trimmings in 3 quarts of water for 2 hours with whole pepper and allspice.

  2. Skim the broth well.

  3. Strain the broth.

Finish the soup

  1. Add the fried veal and minced onions.

  2. Boil for 30 minutes.

  3. Mix 2 tablespoons of curry powder, 2 tablespoons of arrowroot, and 1 teaspoon of salt with cold water.

  4. Stir this mixture into the soup and simmer gently until the veal is tender.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.

  1. Pepper + allspicetop 5% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Allspice + arrowroottop 5% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together45 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  3. Onion + arrowroottop 11% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapstrong
    Mentioned together340 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  4. Pepper + oniontop 11% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together68,474 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Allspice + oniontop 13% of all pairs
    Aroma overlapmoderate
    Mentioned together4,270 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Veal breast
Provides meat and collagen that become tender and flavour the broth during simmering.
Onions
Add sweetness and body to the soup as they soften in the broth.
Curry powder
Supplies the spiced aroma and flavour that define the soup.
Arrowroot
Thickens the soup into a silky body when stirred in and simmered.

The step that matters

Stirring the arrowroot slurry into the soup. Arrowroot must be mixed with cold water first so it disperses without clumping. Stirred into hot liquid directly, it forms lumps. Simmering gently then thickens the soup without breaking the starch.

Flavor stand-ins for the arrowroot

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (veal, pepper, allspice, butter, onion):

  1. Carrotbetter flavor fit
  2. Capsicumbetter flavor fit
  3. Leekbetter flavor fit
  4. Arrowrootthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against veal, pepper, allspice, butter, onion. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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