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To Stew Young Partridges

A stew of young partridges cooked with forcemeat, butter, spices, and a gravy of wine, mushroom ketchup, and lemon pickle.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

To Stew Young Partridges

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the birds

  1. Truss the partridges as for roasting and stuff the cavities with forcemeat.

  2. Lard each side of the breast with butter mixed with pepper, salt, and ground mace, then place the butter mixture inside each bird and sew them up.

Brown and stew

  1. Dredge the partridges with flour and fry them in butter until light brown.

  2. Transfer the partridges to a stew pan with gravy, white wine or beer, mushroom ketchup, lemon pickle, and mushroom powder.

  3. Cover the pan and let the partridges stew for 30 minutes.

Finish and serve

  1. Remove the partridges and thicken the gravy with flour mixed in water.

  2. Boil the gravy and pour it over the partridges.

  3. Garnish with forcemeat balls and hard-boiled egg yolks.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. White wine + mushroomtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,765 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity).

  3. Butter + mushroomtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,525 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-decenal (waxy, orange).

  4. Butter + white winetop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,083 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  5. White wine + lemontop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,832 recipes

    Shared aroma: myrcene (balsamic, herbaceous).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Young partridges
The main meat, which becomes tender as it stews in the gravy.
Forcemeat
Stuffing that stays moist and seasons the birds from within while they cook.
Butter
Enriches the birds and, when frying, promotes browning on the flour-dredged surface.
Flour
Dredging coat that browns in the fat and later thickens the gravy.
Good gravy (4 cups)
Forms the braising liquid that gives the stew its body and savoury depth.
White wine or table beer (⅓ cup)
Adds acidity and aroma that brighten the rich gravy.
Mushroom ketchup (⅓ cup)
Contributes concentrated savoury, umami flavour to the gravy.

The step that matters

Frying the flour-dredged partridges until light brown. Browning builds flavour through the Maillard reaction. Frying too briefly leaves the coating pale and the gravy bland, while over-browning can taste bitter before the stew finishes.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, pepper, flour, white wine, mushroom, ketchup, lemon):

  1. Thymefits better
  2. Marjoramfits better
  3. Parsleyfits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, pepper, flour, white wine, mushroom, ketchup, lemon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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