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Anchovy Butter

A butter spread made with anchovies, spices, and optional rose-pink.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Nutmeg and mace are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,557 recipes. Both carry myristicin, which smells spice, warm. The science ↓

Anchovy Butter

Ingredients

Directions

Make the butter

  1. Remove the bones from the anchovies and mash them with the butter until well combined.

  2. Add cayenne, nutmeg, mace, and rose-pink if using; mix thoroughly.

  3. Press the mixture into jars or pattypans and refrigerate until firm.

Serve

  1. To serve, shape into pats and decorate as desired.

  2. For a fish sauce, mix 2-3 ounces of the butter with 1 teaspoon of flour and a few tablespoons of cold water or pale veal stock, stirring constantly until it boils.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Nutmeg + macetop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  2. Pepper + nutmegtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  3. Mace + rosetop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together498 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  4. Nutmeg + rosetop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,067 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  5. Pepper + macetop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together12,257 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

Pepper and mace barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 12,257 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Anchovies
Provide the savoury, salty fish flavour that defines the butter.
Butter
Carries the anchovies and spices and sets firm when chilled.
Flour (in the method)
Thickens the fish sauce as it cooks with the liquid.

The step that matters

Stirring the fish sauce while it comes to the boil. Flour thickens liquid only when its starch is evenly dispersed and heated. Stirring constantly prevents lumps forming and scorching on the base of the pan, giving a smooth, even sauce.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, pepper, nutmeg, rose):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Cardamomfits better
  3. Allspicefits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, pepper, nutmeg, rose. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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