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Lemon Pickle or Catsup

A preserved lemon condiment made with salt, horseradish, shallots or garlic, vinegar, ginger, pepper, mace, and lemon quarters.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Horseradish and shallot match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 376 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Lemon Pickle or Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the lemons

  1. Divide the lemons into quarters and remove all visible seeds.

  2. Sprinkle the salt over the lemons and let them sit for a week, turning occasionally.

  3. After a week, place the lemons in a stone jar with their liquid.

Make the pickle

  1. In a saucepan, simmer the vinegar with ginger, whole white pepper, and mace for 2-3 minutes.

  2. Pour the hot vinegar mixture over the lemons in the jar.

  3. Let the pickle sit for 2-3 months before using, but it can be stored for up to 4-5 months before straining.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Horseradish + shallottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together376 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Lemon + gingertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,154 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Lemon + shallottop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,523 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  4. Shallot + gingertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together565 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Lemon + horseradishtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,155 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Lemons
Provide the sour, aromatic base that softens and flavours the pickle as it cures.
Coarse sea salt
Draws liquid out of the lemons and helps preserve them during the week-long salting.
Horseradish
Adds pungent heat that mellows over the long resting period.
Boiling vinegar
Acidity that preserves the lemons and sharpens the final pickle.

The step that matters

Pouring the hot vinegar over the lemons. The vinegar must be simmered briefly and poured while hot so the spices release flavour and the acid penetrates the lemons. Cooling it first weakens the infusion and the preservation.

Swap the white pepper

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (lemon, horseradish, shallot, vinegar, ginger, mace):

  1. Tarragonfits better
  2. Allspicefits better
  3. Turmericfits better
  4. White pepperthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against lemon, horseradish, shallot, vinegar, ginger, mace. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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