Why it works: Nutmeg and mace match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and 6,557 recipes mention both. Both carry myristicin, which smells spice, warm. The science ↓
The recipe
Ingredients
Contains: egg, milk, wheat, fish, shellfish (auto-detected from the ingredients and method; we can miss things, so check labels)
Directions
Prepare the head
Wash the cod's head thoroughly and score it with a knife.
Sprinkle a little coarse sea salt on it.
Place it in a large tin oven or a pan before the fire, ensuring proper heat.
Roast
Discard the water that comes from it for the first half hour.
Sprinkle nutmeg, cloves, mace, and salt over it.
Dust with flour and baste with butter.
After some time, turn it over, season, and baste the other side.
Turn it often and baste frequently, adding bread crumbs.
Roast for four to five hours if large.
Make the sauce and serve
Prepare melted butter with an anchovy, the bruised liver, and two beaten egg yolks.
Strain this mixture through a sieve and return it to the saucepan.
Add shrimps or pickled cockles, red wine, and lemon juice, simmer for a minute or two.
Pour the sauce into the pan where the head was roasted and stir well.
Return to the saucepan and stir until it boils.
Place the head on a large dish, pour the sauce into a bowl, and serve hot.
Garnish with fried fish, lemon, and scraped horseradish.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much aroma chemistry they share, and how many recipes mention both.
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Nutmeg + macetop 1% of all pairsAroma overlapstrongMentioned together6,557 recipes
Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).
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Nutmeg + clovetop 1% of all pairsAroma overlapstrongMentioned together8,368 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Clove + macetop 2% of all pairsAroma overlapstrongMentioned together8,199 recipes
Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).
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Butter + breadtop 3% of all pairsAroma overlapstrongMentioned together27,145 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-decalactone (sweet, creamy).
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Bread + anchovytop 4% of all pairsAroma overlapmoderateMentioned together1,257 recipes
Shared aroma: hexanol (green, fruity).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Cod's head
- Forms the main body of the dish, cooked slowly until the flesh is tender.
- Butter
- Adds richness and moisture, and helps the surface brown while basting.
- Egg yolks
- Thicken the sauce and give it a smooth, rich body when gently heated.
- Bread crumbs
- Add texture and help form a golden crust on the roasted surface.
- Anchovy
- Adds savoury depth to the sauce, blending into the butter and yolks.
- Red wine
- Adds acidity and depth of flavour to the finished sauce.
The step that matters
Strain and gently heat the egg yolk sauce. Egg yolks thicken when heated but can scramble if they get too hot. Straining removes lumps, and stirring over gentle heat keeps the sauce smooth.
Flavor stand-ins for the clove
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (nutmeg, mace, flour, butter, bread, anchovy, liver):
- Cinnamonbetter flavor fit
- Parsleyabout as good a flavor fit
- Marjoramabout as good a flavor fit
- Clovethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against nutmeg, mace, flour, butter, bread, anchovy, liver. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes. This compares flavor only: it does not check the job the ingredient does in the dish (bulk, moisture, acidity, structure).
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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