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Sauce

Mushroom Catsup

A fermented mushroom sauce seasoned with salt, pepper, allspice, and brandy.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,395 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Mushroom Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

Salt the mushrooms

  1. Layer the mushrooms and salt in a deep stone or earthen pan. After 2-3 hours, mash the mushrooms and stir the mixture well. Repeat this process for two days.

Cook the mixture

  1. Add black pepper and allspice to the mixture. Transfer everything to a stone jar and seal it tightly. Place the jar in a pot of boiling water for at least 2 hours. Remove the jar.

Strain and reduce

  1. Pour the juice through a fine sieve, avoiding pressing the mushrooms. Boil the strained juice gently until it is reduced by half. Skim off any foam. Pour the catsup into a clean jar or jug and cover it. Let it sit in a cool place overnight. Gently pour off the liquid the next day. Strain the liquid through a jelly bag until clear.

Bottle and store

  1. Add brandy to each pint of catsup and let it settle. Pour the mixture into rinsed bottles. Cork the bottles tightly and seal them with bottle cement. Store in a cool, dry place.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + allspicetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Mushroom + peppertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together13,580 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Mushroom + brandytop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together206 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  4. Mushroom + allspicetop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together717 recipes

    Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).

  5. Allspice + brandytop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together931 recipes

    Shared aroma: linalool (floral, citrus).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Mushrooms
Provide the bulk and the juice that becomes the ketchup.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the mushrooms and helps preserve the mixture.
Black pepper
Adds sharp, aromatic heat to the finished ketchup.
Allspice
Adds a warm, aromatic flavour to the finished ketchup.
Brandy
Adds a spirited aroma and depth to the finished ketchup.

The step that matters

Pour the juice through a fine sieve without pressing the mushrooms. Pressing forces fine solids through the sieve, which makes the juice cloudy and gritty. Letting it drain naturally keeps the final ketchup clear and smooth.

Swap the allspice

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mushroom, pepper, brandy):

  1. Thymefits better
  2. Clovefits better
  3. Marjoramfits better
  4. Allspicethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mushroom, pepper, brandy. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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