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Knuckle of Veal Ragout

A ragout of veal knuckle with onions, celery or carrot, sweet herbs, and a sauce of butter, flour, ketchup, wine, and lemon.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Celery and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 16,012 recipes. Both carry 4'-methylacetophenone, which smells bitter almond. The science ↓

Knuckle of Veal Ragout

Ingredients

Directions

Make the stock

  1. Boil the veal bones until the gristles are tender.

  2. Add the sliced onion, celery or carrot, and sweet herbs to the boiling bones.

  3. Reduce the liquid to 1 quart.

Prepare the veal

  1. Season the veal slices with salt and pepper.

  2. Coat the veal slices with flour.

  3. Fry the veal slices until golden brown.

Make the sauce

  1. Strain the gravy and remove any fat.

  2. Thicken the gravy with butter and flour.

  3. Add ketchup, white wine, and lemon juice to the gravy.

  4. Ensure the sauce is smooth; strain if necessary.

  5. Bring the sauce to a boil.

Finish and serve

  1. Add the veal to the sauce and heat through.

  2. Serve garnished with ham or bacon rashers.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Celery + peppertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together16,012 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  2. Onion + celerytop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18,518 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  3. Butter + white winetop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,083 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  4. Onion + peppertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together68,474 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Knuckle of veal
Provides the meat that becomes tender during the ragout's long, gentle cooking.
Veal bones
Release gelatin and flavor into the liquid, giving the gravy body and richness.
Flour
Coats the veal for browning and, with butter, thickens the gravy.
Butter
Adds fat and richness, and with flour forms a roux that thickens the gravy.
White wine
Adds acidity and aroma that brighten the rich, savory sauce.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that sharpens the flavor and balances the richness of the sauce.

The step that matters

Fry the veal slices until golden brown. Frying floured veal creates browning through the Maillard reaction, which adds deep savory flavor. Pale or overcrowded frying steams the meat and dulls the flavor of the finished sauce.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (veal, celery, pepper, flour, butter, ketchup, white wine):

  1. Carrotfits better
  2. Shallotfits better
  3. Capsicumfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against veal, celery, pepper, flour, butter, ketchup, white wine. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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