Why it works: Parmesan cheese and cheddar cheese match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 592 recipes. Both carry ethyl 2-methylbutyrate, which smells fruity, apple. The science ↓
Pastey. Cheese Pastry
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a hot oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Make the dough
On a clean surface, combine the flour, a pinch of salt, and cayenne.
Rub in the grated cheeses and butter until well mixed.
Add the yolk of the egg and mix into a smooth, stiff paste.
Roll out the paste into a strip ⅛ inch thick and 5 inches long.
Cut the strip into equal-sized pieces and some rings.
Bake and serve
Grease a baking sheet and place the strips and rings on it.
Bake in a hot oven at 400°F (200°C) for 10 minutes until pale brown.
To serve, stand the straws through the rings like a bundle of sticks.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Parmesan cheese + cheddar cheesetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together592 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl 2-methylbutyrate (fruity, apple).
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Butter + cheddar cheesetop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,436 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
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Butter + parmesan cheesetop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together4,163 recipes
Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + eggtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together106,462 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Flour
- Forms the structure of the paste that holds the straws together.
- Butter
- Adds fat that makes the straws short and tender as they bake.
- Parmesan cheese
- Adds savory flavor and helps the straws brown in the oven.
- Cheddar cheese
- Adds richness and cheesy flavor while contributing to browning.
- Egg yolk
- Binds the dough into a smooth, stiff paste and adds richness.
The step that matters
Rolling the paste to an even thickness. Straws of uneven thickness bake unevenly, with thin pieces burning before thick ones are cooked through. Rolling to a consistent ⅛ inch gives straws that brown and crisp at the same rate.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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