Why it works: Fish and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 12% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 4,488 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
Kippered Fispi
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the fish
Scale and clean the fish, then cut it open like a haddock.
Pepper the fish well and rub in a mixture of 4 parts coarse sea salt to 1 part moist sugar, adding lemon juice for each half-pound of the mixture.
Cover the fish with a layer of salt and let it sit overnight.
In the morning, repeat the rubbing and cover again with salt.
Smoke and serve
On the third day, hang the fish over a fire with damp straw or in the smoke of a wood fire to smoke it.
In the evening of the third day, cut the fish into pieces and fry them in butter.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Fish + buttertop 12% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together4,488 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Fish + lemontop 15% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together1,889 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).
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Lemon + buttertop 16% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together41,227 recipes
Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).
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Sugar + buttertop 17% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together98,233 recipes
Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).
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Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together53,532 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).
Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Coarse sea salt
- Draws out moisture and seasons the fish, firming its flesh during the cure.
- Moist sugar
- Balances the salt with sweetness and helps the cure taste rounded rather than harsh.
- Lemon juice
- Adds acidity that brightens the flavour of the cured fish.
- Butter
- Adds fat and richness and browns the pieces when they are fried.
The step that matters
Rubbing and salting the fish. Salt must be worked in evenly and covered fully. Uneven coverage lets some areas cure too little and spoil, while others become too salty and dry. Repeating the rub the next morning keeps the cure penetrating the thick flesh.
Swap the lemon
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (fish, sugar, butter):
- Coconutfits about as well
- Lemonthe original
- Vanillafits about as well
- Applefits less well
Fit is the average pairing score against fish, sugar, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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