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Pains De Praises {Little Strawberry Moulds}

Small moulds of strawberry pulp, eggs, syrup and curaçao set in wine jelly and turned out to serve.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pistachio and angelica share more aroma than cooks usually use. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 36 recipes. Both carry alpha-pinene, which smells pine, turpentine. The science ↓

Pains De Praises {Little Strawberry Moulds}

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the moulds

  1. Dissolve some of the jelly.

  2. Pick about a dozen of the best strawberries.

  3. Mask fancy dariole moulds with jelly.

  4. Garnish the bottom with pistachios and angelica leaves.

  5. Coat with half-set jelly.

  6. Put on ice to firm.

Make the strawberry mousse

  1. Beat the eggs.

  2. Crush the remaining strawberries in a basin with a wooden spoon.

  3. Pass through a fine sieve.

  4. Make ½ cup of syrup with the loaf sugar.

  5. Combine the syrup with the fruit pulp, eggs, and curaçao in a copper bowl.

  6. Whisk over a saucepan of boiling water until the mixture binds.

  7. Beat a little longer over crushed ice.

  8. Add the whole strawberries.

  9. When sufficiently cool, fill the moulds.

  10. Leave on ice until set.

Turn out and serve

  1. Immerse the moulds in tepid water.

  2. Turn out neatly on a dish.

  3. Garnish with chopped wine jelly.

  4. Serve.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pistachio + angelicatop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together36 recipes

    Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).

  2. Egg + sugartop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Sugar + pistachiotop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,233 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

  4. Wine + angelicatop 22% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together52 recipes

    Shared aroma: myrcene (balsamic, herbaceous).

  5. Sugar + angelicatop 27% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together487 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-penten-3-one (fish, pungent).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Whisked over heat, they bind the strawberry mixture so it sets into a soft, sliceable mould.
Wine jelly
Sets into a clear, firm coating that holds the moulds together and gives a glossy finish.
Strawberries
Provide the main flavour, colour and body of the mousse through their pulp and whole fruit.
Loaf sugar
Made into a syrup that sweetens the mixture and balances the fruit's acidity.
Curaçao liqueur
Adds a citrus aroma and flavour that complements the strawberries.

The step that matters

Whisking over boiling water until the mixture binds. Gentle heat lets the egg proteins thicken the mixture without scrambling. Overheating curdles the eggs, while underheating leaves the mousse too loose to set firmly in the moulds.

Swap the pistachio

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (wine, egg, sugar, angelica):

  1. Almondfits about as well
  2. Pistachiothe original
  3. Chestnutfits about as well
  4. Walnutfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against wine, egg, sugar, angelica. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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