Why it works: Sugar and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓
English Sauce for Salad, Cold Meat, or Cold Pish
Ingredients
Directions
Make the yolk base
Boil the egg yolks for at least 15 minutes and let them cool completely.
Mash the yolks in a bowl with the back of a wooden spoon until smooth.
Add the salt, sugar, cayenne, and cold water; mix well.
Finish the sauce
Gradually stir in the sweet cream or olive oil until the sauce resembles custard.
Add the chili vinegar and enough common or French vinegar to taste.
For extra flavor, consider adding eschalot vinegar, Harvey’s sauce, essence of anchovies, French mustard, tarragon vinegar, or a small piece of bruised garlic.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Pepper + vinegartop 14% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together27,814 recipes
Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).
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Sugar + vinegartop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together20,806 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).
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Egg + sugartop 21% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together122,807 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).
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Pepper + creamtop 23% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together21,449 recipes
Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).
Pepper and cream barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 21,449 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Egg yolks
- Hard-boiled yolks mash into a smooth base that thickens the sauce into a custard-like texture.
- Sweet cream or olive oil
- Stirred in gradually, it emulsifies with the yolk base to give the sauce its rich body.
- Powdered sugar
- Adds gentle sweetness that balances the sharpness of the vinegars.
- Chili vinegar
- Provides acidity and heat that cut through the richness of the yolk and cream.
The step that matters
Adding the cream or oil gradually. Fat must be stirred in slowly so the yolk particles can surround and hold the droplets. Adding it too fast can break the emulsion, leaving a greasy, runny sauce instead of a smooth custard-like one.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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