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Salad

English Sauce for Salad, Cold Meat, or Cold Pish

A creamy sauce made from hard‑boiled egg yolks, sweet cream or olive oil, vinegar, and spices, used for salad, cold meat, or fish.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and cream are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 43,450 recipes. Both carry 2,3-butanedione, which smells butter, sweet. The science ↓

English Sauce for Salad, Cold Meat, or Cold Pish

Ingredients

Directions

Make the yolk base

  1. Boil the egg yolks for at least 15 minutes and let them cool completely.

  2. Mash the yolks in a bowl with the back of a wooden spoon until smooth.

  3. Add the salt, sugar, cayenne, and cold water; mix well.

Finish the sauce

  1. Gradually stir in the sweet cream or olive oil until the sauce resembles custard.

  2. Add the chili vinegar and enough common or French vinegar to taste.

  3. For extra flavor, consider adding eschalot vinegar, Harvey’s sauce, essence of anchovies, French mustard, tarragon vinegar, or a small piece of bruised garlic.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  2. Pepper + vinegartop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together27,814 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  3. Sugar + vinegartop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together20,806 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

  4. Egg + sugartop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Pepper + creamtop 23% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together21,449 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetic acid (sour, vinegar).

Pepper and cream barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 21,449 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Hard-boiled yolks mash into a smooth base that thickens the sauce into a custard-like texture.
Sweet cream or olive oil
Stirred in gradually, it emulsifies with the yolk base to give the sauce its rich body.
Powdered sugar
Adds gentle sweetness that balances the sharpness of the vinegars.
Chili vinegar
Provides acidity and heat that cut through the richness of the yolk and cream.

The step that matters

Adding the cream or oil gradually. Fat must be stirred in slowly so the yolk particles can surround and hold the droplets. Adding it too fast can break the emulsion, leaving a greasy, runny sauce instead of a smooth custard-like one.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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