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Modern Cookery

Boiled head of meat served hot with curry, oyster, or egg sauce and brown gravy.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Meat and ham are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 13% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,095 recipes. Both carry 1-octen-3-one, which smells mushroom, metallic. The science ↓

Modern Cookery

Ingredients

Directions

Cook the head

  1. Break the bones of the head and cover with cold water in a pot.

  2. Simmer gently for 1 hour and 15 minutes to 1 hour and 45 minutes until extremely tender.

Serve

  1. Remove the head and serve hot with curry sauce, oyster sauce, or egg sauce and brown gravy.

Keep and set

  1. If saving for later, do not pour gravy over it and leave the binding on for several hours.

  2. Boil the remaining gravy until well reduced and jellied when cold.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Meat + hamtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,095 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

  2. Meat + parsleytop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,040 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  3. Ham + parsleytop 24% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together3,249 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Head of meat
Provides the main body, and its connective tissue softens into tender meat during long simmering.
Cold water
Cooking liquid that slowly draws gelatin from the bones and tissue into the gravy.
Calf's foot
Adds extra collagen, which gives the reduced gravy a firm, jellied set when cold.

The step that matters

Simmer gently, not hard. Long gentle simmering converts collagen in the head into gelatin, making the meat tender. A hard boil toughens muscle fibres and can break the meat apart while leaving the gravy cloudy.

Swap the parsley

The recipe marks parsley as optional. How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (meat, ham):

  1. Thymefits better
  2. Celeryfits better
  3. Clovefits about as well
  4. Parsleythe original

Fit is the average pairing score against meat, ham. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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