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Lamprey, a LA Foley

A stew of lampreys cooked in claret with vegetables, finished with a brown sauce ragout and garnished with croutons and perch fillets.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 11 ingredients
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Why it works: Lemon and pepper match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

Lamprey, a LA Foley

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the lampreys

  1. Form each lamprey into a circular shape and fasten with string.

  2. Stew the lampreys in claret with vegetables until cooked.

Make the sauce

  1. Reduce two-thirds of the cooking liquid with an equal amount of brown sauce and essence of mushrooms.

  2. Incorporate crayfish butter, essence of anchovies, nutmeg, lemon juice, and cayenne into the sauce.

  3. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve into a bain-marie with crayfish tails and button mushrooms.

Serve

  1. Drain the lampreys on a napkin and place them in a dish, one resting on the other.

  2. Sauce the lampreys with the prepared ragout and garnish with glazed croutons and fried small fillets of perch.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + peppertop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Nutmeg + lemontop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together11,318 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Butter + mushroomtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,525 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-decenal (waxy, orange).

  4. Nutmeg + peppertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  5. Sauce + crayfishtop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together195 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Lampreys
The main protein; stewing in claret cooks it until tender and firm.
Brown sauce
Adds body and savoury depth, thickening the reduced cooking liquid into a rich sauce.
Claret
Red wine that gives the lampreys flavour during stewing and forms the base of the sauce.
Crayfish butter
Adds richness and a concentrated shellfish aroma to the sauce.
Button mushrooms
Add earthy flavour and a tender texture to the ragout.

The step that matters

Stewing the lampreys in claret until cooked. Lamprey is easily overcooked and turns tough and dry. Gentle stewing in liquid keeps the flesh moist while it sets through.

Swap the nutmeg

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sauce, crayfish, butter, lemon, pepper, mushroom):

  1. Parsleyfits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Tarragonfits better
  4. Nutmegthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sauce, crayfish, butter, lemon, pepper, mushroom. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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