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Calves-feet with Spanish Sauce

A dish of boiled calves' feet coated in breadcrumb mixture and served with a sauce of onions, truffles, suet, and Madeira wine.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 8,686 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Calves-feet with Spanish Sauce

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the feet

  1. Clean the calves' feet.

  2. Boil the calves' feet.

  3. Split the calves' feet.

  4. Dip the calves' feet in beaten eggs.

  5. Coat them with a mixture of bread crumbs, parsley, shallot, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and salt.

  6. Fry the coated calves' feet until golden brown.

Make the Spanish sauce

  1. Slice the onions.

  2. Place the sliced onions in a saucepan with chopped truffles or mushrooms, suet, cayenne, white pepper, salt, and sugar.

  3. Simmer the saucepan contents in strong stock until the gravy reduces.

  4. Stir in Madeira wine and lemon juice.

  5. Heat thoroughly before serving.

Serve

  1. Arrange the feet in a dish.

  2. Pour the sauce over the feet.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + nutmegtop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,686 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Parsley + shallottop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,737 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  3. Parsley + peppertop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together34,122 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  4. Parsley + nutmegtop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,062 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  5. Shallot + nutmegtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,019 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calves' feet
Provide the main body of the dish, with gelatinous connective tissue that softens during boiling.
Eggs
Bind the bread crumb coating so it adheres to the feet before frying.
Bread crumbs
Form a crisp, golden coating when the feet are fried.
Spanish onions
Soften and sweeten as they simmer, forming the body of the sauce.
Strong stock
Serves as the liquid in which the onions simmer, giving the sauce its savory base.
Madeira wine
Adds a rich, fortified sweetness and aroma to the finished sauce.

The step that matters

Frying the coated calves' feet until golden brown. Frying too cool lets the egg and crumb coating absorb oil and fall away, while frying too hot browns the crumbs before the coating sets. Steady heat gives an even, adherent golden crust.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, bread, parsley, shallot, clove, nutmeg, pepper):

  1. Chivefits better
  2. Leekfits better
  3. Spinachfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, bread, parsley, shallot, clove, nutmeg, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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