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Lemon Ketchup, or Pickle

A preserved lemon condiment made with vinegar, anchovies, mace, nutmeg, and white pepper.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mace and nutmeg are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,557 recipes. Both carry myristicin, which smells spice, warm. The science ↓

Lemon Ketchup, or Pickle

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the lemons

  1. Cut the tops off the lemons and stuff them with salt.

  2. Set the lemons upright in a dish before the fire, turning them every day.

  3. When they become dry, roast them in a Dutch oven until brown.

Make the pickle

  1. Boil the vinegar with the anchovies, mace, nutmeg, and white pepper for 10 minutes.

  2. Pour the boiling mixture over the lemons in a stone jar and cover tightly.

  3. Let it stand for six weeks, then transfer to quarter-pint flat bottles.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mace + nutmegtop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  2. Lemon + nutmegtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together11,318 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Mace + white peppertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,695 recipes

    Shared aroma: myrcene (balsamic, herbaceous).

  4. Nutmeg + white peppertop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together1,375 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Lemon + white peppertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together1,658 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Lemons
Provide the main body and sour citrus flavour of the pickle.
Vinegar
Acts as the preserving liquid that softens and carries the flavours of the lemons.
Anchovies
Add a deep savoury, salty richness to the pickle.
Mace
Adds a warm, aromatic spice flavour to the boiled liquid.
Nutmeg
Adds a warm, sweet aromatic note to the pickling liquid.
White pepper
Adds gentle, sharp heat that rounds out the spiced liquid.

The step that matters

Roasting the dried lemons until brown. Browning them in a hot Dutch oven develops deeper, toasty flavours through the Maillard reaction. Over-roasting can make them bitter or burnt, so watch them closely as they darken.

Swap the white pepper

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (lemon, vinegar, mace, nutmeg):

  1. Allspicefits better
  2. Cinnamonfits better
  3. Marjoramfits better
  4. White pepperthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against lemon, vinegar, mace, nutmeg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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