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Calces' Feet Broth

A broth made by boiling calves' feet, sweetened with wine and sugar, finished with egg yolk, butter, and lemon peel.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Nutmeg and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 11,318 recipes. Both carry beta-phellandrene, which smells minty, terpene. The science ↓

Calces' Feet Broth

Ingredients

Directions

Make the broth

  1. Boil the calves' feet in 3 quarts of water until reduced by half.

  2. Strain the broth and set it aside.

  3. When ready to use, remove the fat from the broth.

Make the sauce

  1. In a saucepan, combine ½ cup of the jelly, ⅓ cup of sweet wine, 2 teaspoons of sugar, and ¼ teaspoon of nutmeg.

  2. Heat until just before boiling.

  3. Gradually mix a little of the hot broth into the egg yolk.

  4. Stir in 1 tablespoon of butter and mix well without boiling.

  5. Grate fresh lemon peel into the mixture before serving.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Nutmeg + lemontop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together11,318 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  2. Wine + lemontop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together6,157 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  3. Wine + buttertop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together8,645 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-furfurylthiol (coffee, roasted).

  4. Nutmeg + buttertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together24,377 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Butter + lemontop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,227 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calves' feet
Release gelatin as they simmer, giving the broth body and a jelly-like set.
Egg yolk
Thickens the warm mixture into a smooth, custard-like texture when tempered.
Butter
Adds richness and a silky mouthfeel to the finished sauce.
Sweet wine
Adds sweetness and aromatic flavour to the warm mixture.

The step that matters

Stir in the butter without boiling. Once the egg yolk is in, boiling can scramble it and cause it to curdle, so the mixture must stay below a boil to remain smooth and thickened.

Swap the nutmeg

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (wine, sugar, egg, butter, lemon):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Tarragonfits about as well
  3. Nutmegthe original
  4. Parsleyfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against wine, sugar, egg, butter, lemon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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