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An Old Recipe for Tomato Catsup

A thick tomato sauce made by boiling tomatoes, vinegar, sugar, salt, onions, spices, and herbs, then straining.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Allspice and mustard match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,928 recipes. Both carry methyleugenol, which smells clove, spice. The science ↓

An Old Recipe for Tomato Catsup

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Combine all ingredients in a large pot.

  2. Boil for 3 hours, stirring often to prevent burning.

  3. Cool the mixture and strain it through a fine sieve.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Allspice + mustardtop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together1,928 recipes

    Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).

  2. Pepper + allspicetop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,395 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  3. Onion + mustardtop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together9,259 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  4. Cider + vinegartop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,431 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4-ethyl-2-methoxyphenol (smoky, clove).

  5. Tomato + peppertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together17,923 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Skimmed tomatoes
Provide the main body, moisture and tomato flavour of the ketchup.
Cider vinegar
Adds acidity that sharpens flavour and helps preserve the finished sauce.
Brown sugar
Adds sweetness and depth, and helps balance the acidity of the vinegar.
Onions
Contribute body and savoury sweetness as they break down during boiling.

The step that matters

Boil for 3 hours, stirring often. Long simmering thickens the sauce by evaporating water, but the sugars and tomato solids can scorch on the bottom of the pot. Frequent stirring prevents burning and keeps the flavour clean.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (tomato, cider, vinegar, sugar, pepper, allspice, mustard):

  1. Capsicumfits better
  2. Horseradishfits better
  3. Cucumberfits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against tomato, cider, vinegar, sugar, pepper, allspice, mustard. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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