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Mushroom Ketchup

A fermented mushroom condiment made with salt, spices, and brandy.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Mushroom and brandy work together. They rank in the top 13% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 206 recipes. Both carry guaiacol, which smells smoky, sweet. The science ↓

Mushroom Ketchup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the mushrooms

  1. Clean the mushrooms without washing them.

  2. Layer the mushrooms in a deep pan with salt, repeating until the pan is nearly full.

  3. Cover and let them sit in a warm place for three hours until soft.

  4. Press down the mushrooms with a wooden spoon.

  5. Keep the mushrooms in the pan for two days.

  6. Stir and mash the mushrooms twice daily.

Cook and strain

  1. Pour the pulp and liquid into stone jars.

  2. Add allspice and black peppercorns to the jars.

  3. Seal the jars tightly.

  4. Place the sealed jars in a pot with boiling water, ensuring the water reaches nearly the top of the jars.

  5. Boil the jars for about 3.5 hours.

  6. Steam the jars for about 3.5 hours.

  7. Remove the jars.

  8. Pour off the liquid while keeping back the sediment.

  9. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a clean pot.

  10. Simmer the liquid for one hour.

  11. Skim off any scum that rises.

Settle and bottle

  1. Pour the ketchup into a clean, dry jug.

  2. Let it sit covered in a cool place for about 20 hours.

  3. Decant the clear liquid from the sediment through a thick flannel bag.

  4. Add French brandy to each quart of the liquid.

  5. Let it stand in the jug again.

  6. Store the pure ketchup in small, clean, dry bottles.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Mushroom + brandytop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together206 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  2. Mushroom + allspicetop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together717 recipes

    Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).

  3. Allspice + brandytop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together931 recipes

    Shared aroma: linalool (floral, citrus).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Fresh mushrooms
Provide the main body and liquid of the ketchup as they break down with salt.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the mushrooms and helps preserve the ketchup.
Allspice berries
Add warm, aromatic flavour to the finished ketchup.
Black peppercorns
Add sharp, aromatic pungency to the finished ketchup.
French brandy
Adds alcohol that helps preserve the ketchup and contributes aroma.

The step that matters

Salting and layering the mushrooms. Salt must be evenly layered so it draws moisture out of the mushrooms and keeps spoilage organisms in check during the days of standing. Mushrooms left unsalted or unevenly covered can rot before they release their liquid.

Swap the allspice

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mushroom, brandy):

  1. Clovefits better
  2. Thymefits better
  3. Nutmegfits better
  4. Allspicethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against mushroom, brandy. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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