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To Malce a Pasty of Beef or Juxton

A baked pasty filled with seasoned beef or mutton, sweetened with sugar and flavored with port wine and vinegar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 13,015 recipes. Both carry 4'-methylacetophenone, which smells bitter almond. The science ↓

To Malce a Pasty of Beef or Juxton

Oven, in the book's wordsA slow oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a slow oven”. The 300°F in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the meat

  1. Bone a small rump or piece of sirloin of beef, or a fat loin of mutton after hanging several days.

  2. Beat the meat well with a rolling pin.

  3. Rub the meat with sugar.

  4. Pour port wine and vinegar over the meat.

  5. Let it sit for five days and nights.

  6. Wash and dry the meat.

Season and bake

  1. Season the meat with pepper, Jamaica pepper, nutmeg, and coarse sea salt.

  2. Place the meat in a dish and spread butter over it.

  3. Cover with a crust around the edges and a thick top crust.

  4. Bake in a slow oven (300°F / 150°C).

Make the gravy

  1. Set the bones in a pan with just enough water to cover them.

  2. Add port, pepper, and coarse sea salt to the pan for gravy.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + nutmegtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  2. Beef + peppertop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18,971 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Port wine + vinegartop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together598 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4-ethyl-2-methoxyphenol (smoky, clove).

  4. Port wine + buttertop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,499 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  5. Beef + port winetop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together626 recipes

    Shared aroma: sotolon (curry, maple).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Beef or mutton
Forms the main body of the pasty, becoming tender during the long cure and slow bake.
Sugar
Rubbed into the meat to add sweetness and balance the sharp vinegar and wine.
Port wine
Adds acidity and depth of flavour while helping to tenderise the meat during the long soak.
Vinegar
Acidic marinade that helps soften the meat fibres over the five-day rest.
Butter
Spread over the meat to add richness and moisture during baking.

The step that matters

Letting the meat sit for five days. The marinade of sugar, port and vinegar must penetrate and soften the meat slowly. Rinsing and drying afterwards removes surface liquid, so the pasty bakes rather than steams.

Swap the nutmeg

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (beef, sugar, port wine, vinegar, butter, pepper):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Tarragonfits better
  3. Clovefits about as well
  4. Nutmegthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against beef, sugar, port wine, vinegar, butter, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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