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Dessert

Modern Cookery

A cake made from almonds, candied orange rind, citron, flour, sugar, spices, and egg whites.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 7 ingredients
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Why it works: Almond and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 3,514 recipes. Both carry eucalyptol, which smells eucalyptus, herbal. The science ↓

Modern Cookery

Oven, in the book's wordsA moderate oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a moderate oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).

  2. Chop the almonds and candied orange rind into spikes.

Make the dough

  1. In a bowl, mix the almonds, candied orange rind, citron, flour, sugar, and mace and cinnamon.

  2. Add the egg whites and mix until a smooth paste forms.

  3. Roll the mixture into balls the size of large marbles.

Bake

  1. Place the balls on wafer paper and bake for 20 minutes until crisp but not deeply colored.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Almond + cinnamontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,514 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  2. Orange + cinnamontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together3,437 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  3. Almond + flourtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together8,673 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Almond + orangetop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,125 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  5. Flour + cinnamontop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together17,341 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Almonds
Provide the main body and nutty flavour of the cake.
Egg whites
Bind the mixture into a smooth paste that holds its shape.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and helps the cakes brown and crisp while baking.
Candied orange rind
Adds sweet citrus aroma and chewy texture throughout.
Flour
Adds a small amount of structure to hold the mixture together.

The step that matters

Baking until crisp but not deeply colored. Sugar darkens quickly in the oven, so pulling the cakes once they are crisp but still pale keeps them from turning bitter. Baking too long makes them hard rather than tender-crisp.

Swap the mace

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (almond, orange, flour, sugar, cinnamon, egg):

  1. Nutmegfits better
  2. Cardamomfits better
  3. Allspicefits better
  4. Macethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against almond, orange, flour, sugar, cinnamon, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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