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Salad

Our Own Sauce for Salad or Cold Meat

A sauce made with egg yolks, salt, cayenne, nutmeg, oil, meat jelly, and cucumber vinegar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 13,015 recipes. Both carry 4'-methylacetophenone, which smells bitter almond. The science ↓

Our Own Sauce for Salad or Cold Meat

Ingredients

Directions

  1. In a bowl, mix the egg yolks, salt, cayenne, and nutmeg.

  2. Gradually stir in the oil until the sauce is smooth.

  3. Add the meat jelly and cucumber vinegar, mixing well.

  4. For extra flavor, consider adding chili vinegar.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + nutmegtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  2. Cucumber + vinegartop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,734 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-methylbutyl acetate (fruit).

  3. Nutmeg + cucumbertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together432 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  4. Pepper + cucumbertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,991 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  5. Pepper + vinegartop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together27,814 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Egg yolks
Emulsify the oil into the dressing and thicken it into a smooth sauce.
Finest quality oil
Forms the body of the dressing, adding richness and fat for mouthfeel.
Meat jelly
Adds savoury body and moisture to the dressing.
Cucumber vinegar
Adds acidity that brightens the dressing and balances the richness of the oil.

The step that matters

Gradually stir in the oil until the sauce is smooth. Oil must be added slowly to the egg yolks so it disperses into tiny droplets. Adding it too fast can break the emulsion, leaving the sauce oily and separated instead of smooth.

Swap the nutmeg

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, pepper, meat, cucumber, vinegar):

  1. Tarragonfits better
  2. Dillfits better
  3. Parsleyfits better
  4. Nutmegthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against egg, pepper, meat, cucumber, vinegar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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