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A beef cured with saltpetre, sugar, sea salt, common salt, pepper, treacle, and herbs, then boiled.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and parsley match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 34,122 recipes. Both carry 4'-methylacetophenone, which smells bitter almond. The science ↓

Modern Cookery

Ingredients

Directions

Cure the beef

  1. Trim the edges of the beef.

  2. Press the beef under a heavy weight while hot.

  3. Rub ¾ lb of coarse sugar into the meat.

  4. Let it sit for 2 days.

  5. Add 1 oz of saltpetre and ½ lb of coarse sea salt.

  6. Let the mixture sit for 10 days.

Shape and tie

  1. Remove bones and tough inner skin from the beef.

  2. Sprinkle the under side of the beef with shredded parsley and herbs.

  3. Roll the beef tightly.

  4. Secure the rolled beef with a cloth and bind it with broad tape.

Cook and press

  1. Boil the beef gently for about 5 hours.

  2. After boiling, place it under a weight or in a press without removing the tape and cloth.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + parsleytop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together34,122 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  2. Beef + peppertop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together18,971 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-isopropyl-3-methoxypyrazine (earthy, pea).

  3. Beef + parsleytop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,866 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  4. Sugar + peppertop 32% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together19,401 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Beef + sugartop 37% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together5,435 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-damascenone (apple, rose).

Sugar and pepper barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 19,401 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Beef
Forms the main body of the dish, becoming firm and sliceable once cooked and pressed.
Saltpetre
Helps preserve the meat and gives it a characteristic pink cured colour and flavour.
Coarse sea salt
Draws moisture out of the meat and seasons it during the long cure.
Coarse sugar
Balances the sharpness of the salt and adds gentle sweetness to the cure.
Treacle
Adds sweetness, depth and a dark colour to the meat.
Parsley and other savory herbs
Add aroma and fresh savoury flavour inside the rolled beef.

The step that matters

Boil the beef gently for about 5 hours. Boiling vigorously toughens meat proteins and drives out moisture, so a gentle simmer keeps the beef tender and juicy over the long cook.

Swap the parsley

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (beef, sugar, pepper):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Rosemaryfits better
  3. Nutmegfits about as well
  4. Parsleythe original

Fit is the average pairing score against beef, sugar, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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