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A Salmi, or Hash Op Wild Fowl

A dish of carved wild fowl served in a sauce of port, broth, and spices, accompanied by fried sippets.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Pepper and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 3% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 27,047 recipes. Both carry trans-2-nonenal, which smells cardboard, fatty. The science ↓

A Salmi, or Hash Op Wild Fowl

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the sauce

  1. Boil the skin and trimmings of wild fowl in good broth or gravy with shallots until flavorful.

  2. Strain the broth, heat it, and thicken it slightly with brown roux or browned flour.

Season and finish

  1. Mix port or claret with the gravy and season with cayenne pepper.

  2. Add the juice of half a small lemon to the mixture.

  3. Add ⅓ cup port wine and lemon juice to taste.

Assemble and serve

  1. Carve the wild fowl neatly and remove the skin.

  2. Warm the carved birds slowly in the sauce without boiling.

  3. Place fried sippets around the dish.

  4. Serve the dish hot.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Pepper + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  2. Lemon + shallottop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,523 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  3. Shallot + flourtop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together2,081 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Shallot + port winetop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together380 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  5. Pepper + shallottop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,898 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Wild fowl
Provides the main meat, which is carved and gently warmed in the sauce.
Brown roux or browned flour
Thickens the broth so it clings to the meat instead of running off.
Port or claret
Adds sweetness and depth of flavour to the sauce.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the rich, savoury sauce.

The step that matters

Warm the carved birds slowly in the sauce without boiling. Boiling toughens meat proteins and makes them dry and stringy, while gentle heat keeps the fowl tender and juicy.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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