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Breast of Veal Ragout

A veal breast ragout with morels, truffles, sweetbread, egg balls, artichoke bottoms, ketchup, cullis, cayenne pepper, sea salt, and lemon juice.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 13 ingredients
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Why it works: Artichoke and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 2% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 636 recipes. Both carry 1-octen-3-ol, which smells mushroom, earthy. The science ↓

Breast of Veal Ragout

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the veal

  1. Remove the under bone and cut the breast of veal in half lengthwise, then cut the pieces into medium-sized chunks.

  2. Fry the pieces in a little lard until lightly browned.

  3. Wipe them dry and place in a stewpan with ½ pint of veal stock.

Stew the ragout

  1. Simmer until nearly done and the liquid is almost reduced.

  2. Add blanched morels, truffles, sweetbread slices, egg balls, artichoke bottoms, a little ketchup, and some cullis.

  3. Season with cayenne pepper, coarse sea salt, and a little lemon juice.

  4. Let everything stew together until fully cooked.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Artichoke + lemontop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together636 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  2. Pepper + lemontop 3% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together27,047 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  3. Artichoke + peppertop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,170 recipes

    Shared aroma: nonanal (fat, citrus).

  4. Veal + truffletop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together815 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-nonadienal (fatty, green).

  5. Truffle + artichoketop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together240 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Veal breast
Provides the meat that becomes tender and rich as it simmers slowly in stock.
Veal stock
Supplies liquid that carries flavour and gently cooks the meat as it reduces.
Sweetbread
Adds a soft, delicate texture and a mild, rich flavour to the ragout.
Morels
Contribute an earthy, aromatic flavour and a meaty chew.
Truffles
Add a deep, aromatic earthiness that perfumes the whole dish.
Cullis
Thickens the sauce and concentrates the flavour through reduction.

The step that matters

Reducing the liquid after simmering. Simmering until the stock is almost reduced concentrates its flavour and thickens the sauce. Stopping too early leaves it thin and watery, while reducing too far can make it salty and sticky.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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