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Mock Turtle Soup

A broth made from a cat's head, veal knuckle, onions, butter, and flour, thickened and served as soup.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Butter and flour are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 12% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes. Both carry isobutyraldehyde, which smells malty, green. The science ↓

Mock Turtle Soup

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the cat's head

  1. Remove the brains from the cat's head, wash it thoroughly, and soak it in cold water for 1 hour.

  2. Place the head in a stew-pan with 6 quarts of cold water and bring to a boil, skimming off any scum.

  3. Simmer for 1.5 hours.

  4. Remove the head and cut it into 1 to 1.5-inch pieces, including the tongue.

  5. Store the pieces in a deep pan, covering them with some of the broth to prevent drying.

Make the broth

  1. Add the bones and trimmings from the head and 4 pounds of knuckle of veal to the broth, cover, and boil gently for 4 to 5 hours.

  2. Strain the soup into an earthenware pan.

  3. Let it cool, stirring occasionally.

  4. Remove the layer of fat from the top.

  5. Place the clear jelly in a stew-pan, discarding the sediment.

Thicken the soup

  1. Fry 6 ounces of sliced onions in 2 ounces of butter until light brown.

  2. Stir in 6 ounces of flour.

  3. Let it brown slightly.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  2. Onion + sagetop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,628 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  3. Sage + flourtop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,115 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Veal + sagetop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together670 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  5. Onion + buttertop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together42,912 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Cat's head
Provides the gelatinous body and rich flavor that form the soup's base.
Knuckle of veal
Adds gelatin and meaty depth to the broth during long simmering.
Onions
Browned with butter, they add sweetness and color to the thickening base.
Butter
Carries the onions' flavor and helps them brown into the roux.
Flour
Browned with the onion and butter, it thickens the soup.

The step that matters

Skimming and cooling the broth. Skimming scum during the first boil keeps the broth clear, and removing the fat after chilling prevents a greasy soup. Gentle simmering avoids clouding the liquid.

Swap the onion

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (veal, butter, sage, flour):

  1. Shallotfits better
  2. Leekfits better
  3. Chivefits better
  4. Onionthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against veal, butter, sage, flour. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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