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Modern Cookery

A stew of game birds simmered in a sauce of parsley root, veal stock, sherry, and optional mushrooms.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sherry and mushroom are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 1,176 recipes. Both carry 2-methoxy-4-methylphenol, which smells smoky, clove. The science ↓

Modern Cookery

Ingredients

Directions

Make the sauce

  1. Stew the parsley over gentle heat, stirring often, until the saucepan sides are reddish-brown.

  2. Mix in the flour and let it take on a little color.

  3. Gradually add the veal stock, making the sauce boil with each addition.

  4. Add the sherry or Madeira and the bruised bodies of the birds.

  5. Boil for 1 to 1½ hours, then strain and remove fat from the sauce.

Finish and serve

  1. Pour the sauce over the game joints and heat slowly until near boiling.

  2. Serve immediately with delicately fried sippets around the dish.

Fry the garnish

  1. If using, add mushrooms and seasonings to the butter while cooking.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sherry + mushroomtop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,176 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-methoxy-4-methylphenol (smoky, clove).

  2. Butter + mushroomtop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,525 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-decenal (waxy, orange).

  3. Parsley + mushroomtop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,132 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,4-decadienal (seaweed).

  4. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Parsley + flourtop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together16,675 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Parsley root
Browns in the pan to add a deep, roasted, savory flavor to the sauce.
Flour
Thickens the sauce and helps it take on color as it cooks.
Veal stock
Forms the liquid base of the sauce, giving body and savory depth.
Sherry or madeira
Adds acidity and aromatic sweetness that balance the rich, gamy sauce.
Game bird bodies
Provide the gamy meat flavor that is extracted into the simmering sauce.

The step that matters

Browning the parsley root. Stewing until the pan turns reddish-brown develops deeper caramelized and Maillard flavors. Pale parsley gives a flat sauce, while over-darkening can turn it bitter.

Swap the parsley

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, veal, sherry, butter, mushroom):

  1. Thymefits better
  2. Nutmegfits about as well
  3. Marjoramfits about as well
  4. Parsleythe original

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, veal, sherry, butter, mushroom. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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