Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
A Good Soda Cake
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Prepare
Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C).
Break down the butter into the flour and work it into small crumbs.
Make the batter
Mix in the sifted sugar.
Pour in the boiling milk and add the whisked eggs.
Stir in the grated nutmeg or lemon rind and the currants.
Beat the mixture well and lightly.
Stir in the baking soda and mix for another 3-4 minutes.
Bake
Pour the batter into a buttered mold.
Bake for 1 to 1¼ hours, or divide into two molds and bake each for 45 minutes.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Flour + nutmegtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together18,623 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + milktop 14% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together78,219 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Flour + sugartop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92,116 recipes
Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Butter
- Rubbed into the flour, it adds richness and a tender, crumbly texture.
- Flour
- Forms the main structure of the cake once its proteins set in the oven.
- Sugar
- Adds sweetness and helps keep the crumb soft and tender.
- Eggs
- Bind the batter and help set the structure as the cake bakes.
- Milk
- Adds moisture and helps hydrate the flour and sugar in the batter.
- Currants
- Add concentrated sweetness and chewy pockets of fruit throughout the cake.
The step that matters
Beat the mixture well and lightly. Flour proteins form gluten when stirred, so overbeating makes the cake tough and dense. Beating only until the batter is evenly combined keeps the crumb tender while still distributing the ingredients.
Swap the currant
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, flour, sugar, milk, egg, nutmeg):
- Vanillafits better
- Raisinfits better
- Figfits better
- Currantthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against butter, flour, sugar, milk, egg, nutmeg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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