Why it works: Allspice and clove match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Loin of Mutton Roasted
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a slow oven”. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Prepare the meat
Hang the mutton until tender and bone it.
Season the meat with finely powdered pepper, allspice, mace, nutmeg, and cloves.
Prepare stuffing as for hare, beat the meat, and cover it with the stuffing.
Roll it up tightly and tie it.
Bake and stew
Half bake in a slow oven at 300°F (150°C) and let it cool.
Remove the fat and place the gravy in a stewpan.
Flour the meat and add it to the stewpan.
Stew until almost ready, then add port wine, ketchup, anchovy, and lemon-pickle half an hour before serving.
Serve
Serve in the gravy with jelly sauce.
Add fresh mushrooms for improvement, if desired.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Allspice + clovetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together7,874 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Allspice + nutmegtop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together3,331 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Nutmeg + clovetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together8,686 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Mace + nutmegtop 4% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together6,557 recipes
Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).
-
Pepper + clovetop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together17,451 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Loin of mutton
- Forms the main body of the dish, becoming tender when hung and then slowly cooked.
- Flour
- Coats the meat so the gravy thickens and clings to the surface.
- Port wine
- Adds depth and sweetness to the gravy as it finishes cooking.
- Anchovy
- Adds savoury depth to the gravy, giving a salty, umami note.
- Fresh mushrooms
- Add earthy flavour and moisture to the gravy when used.
The step that matters
Half bake and cool before stewing. Partial baking sets the rolled meat's shape and firms its surface so it holds together during the later stew. Cooling before the gravy stage lets the fat be removed cleanly.
Swap the mace
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (mutton, pepper, allspice, nutmeg, clove, port wine, ketchup):
- Cinnamonfits better
- Marjoramfits better
- Winter savoryfits better
- Macethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against mutton, pepper, allspice, nutmeg, clove, port wine, ketchup. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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